Cyprus is....well, not easily described in one word. I woke up this morning at 5.50am. Yiayia & I, every morning so far, wake to wonder aloud why the pigeons, chickens & roosters must have such loud meetings/arguments at such an hour. At 6.15 I'm in the truck, off to the beach with Theo (uncle) Yonas & Yota. We walk the length of the first beach for the first 30 minutes, & swim for the next 50. It's a morning ritual for them that I'm gladly taking part in. I return to visit the gotas (chickens!) & gather the first bunch of eggs. Ten this morning! They've been busy. I end up needing to shoo the wandering ones back into the coop....this morning they spared me the pecking at my toes though, so I can complain. Then for breakfast- a big bowl of just picked siga (figs), hallumi (cheese), toast, melon, cafe.....All before 9am..Never have my mornings been so full.
Yesterday Theo Naki, Thea Maroulla, Yiayia, Yoti & I went to Pafos(Paphos). It's on the other side of the island, about an hour & a half away (the island is small, after all... The town is filled with tourists. I believe I saw every mossaic there..& there were quite a few. The midday sun is HOT & HUMID. Everyone was dripping...it was slightly unbearable, but the things I saw......Naki was a good sport...he kept on going & wanted me to see EVERYTHING. All from the 3-5th century....I've never seem anything that even compares. & the design work! I think I have material for years to come!! The Tombs of the Kings are there as well...up & down stone stairs in the heat...but to think these people carved out such spaces in ground....rooms & rooms within rooms & passageways & colums...all below ground level for the kings & queens (though really just the rich). I took photos until my camera battrery died, then proceeded to scribble down colors, shapes & notes.
Walking through Pafos were the most beautiful plants...fresh licorice (who knew it was yellow...), rosemary, & some strange tree with black pod like things on them. Thea Maroulla took a large branch to this tree, knocking some down. They tasted like honey! People here are so resourceful.
I'm being spoiled by the food. I fill my plate & the Cypriot ladies shake their heads & put more food on it, asking why I eat so little...while I think I'm eating so much! Freshly grown vegetables, apples, oranges, grapes, figs, pomegranites,filter nuts & almonds....
My relatives have been wonderful..they are more than willing to take me ANYWHERE, & now that they understand how interested I am in the art, books, furnature, laces etc are coming out from everywhere. Every day is a history lesson that no amount of research would ever tell me.
I've decided against Turkey, as they don't recognize Cyprus, so travel directly between the two is impossible, & anything my older relatives feel comfortable with requires 8-day long tour groups all spoken in Greek. Luckily, there is more than enough on this island alone, so while it would have been incredible, beggars can't be choosers.
The old Cypriots are funny...they tell me to learn Greek but have no patience for translating, so it's been interesting. My 5 year old third cousin (or niece?? who knows anymore..)) helped me out quite a bit, then tried to confuse me telling me black was violet, & white was green. She has been glued to my side all day & is greatly amused by the language barrier!
Tomorrow I am headed to Nicosia & Larnaca. There is a cultural museum with old textiles, costumes from all over the island, pottery & so on. People certainly get around on this island. I feel like I've been here much longer than I have. The language barrier is difficult, though I'm getting breaks ((I spend my 50-,min swim with an older man that speaks English..he too is at the beach every morning...neither of us want to go in the water too deep over our heads, so we tread water back & forth & he tells me some history of Cyprus, as well as stories about anything & everything. Yesterday I didn't go- & today was greeted with- I don't know if you like them, but I picked figs for you yesterday & you weren't here!!)) Regardless, reading emails from all of you is such a pleasant reminder that I am not in any way inadequate for not speaking this language/learning it in 2-days, so please do keep them coming!!
Yiayia says hello to everyone. She's hanging in there!! I'm glad she was able to come back & see everyone....Family is family, no matter where you are.
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